ALL ABOUT SUNSCREEN, THE GOOD, THE BAD AND THE WORSE.

 

The sun provides a natural lift in spirits and immunity from the much-needed Vitamin D. But it also poses danger from ultraviolet A (UVA) and ultraviolet B (UVB). Exposure to these emissions may cause sunburn, skin aging, and skin cancer.

I want to help you explore some considerations when making your choices to purchase sunscreen products. Sunscreen products must conform to over the counter (OTC) drug regulations (labeling, testing, permitted active ingredients, etc). The U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA) regulates all sunscreens, including any cosmetic or personal care product labeled with an SPF, and over the counter (OTC) drug products.

Sunscreen alone will not protect us from sun damage. Sunscreen should be your LAST line of defense. That being said, it can be useful for protecting the parts of skin we can’t shade or cover. This is why it’s recommended to use sunscreen together with shade, clothing, hats and sunglasses to avoid getting too much UV exposure.

As mentioned in the blog post The Need to Knows of Enjoying the Sun Safely, it’s important to approach sun protection as a full sun-care regimen. I talked about the importance of antioxidants internally. Well, they are just as important externally.  There are herbs and oils that can help boost your skin’s ability to handle the sun–and recover from it–if you use them in your daily summer skincare regimen.

So, the moral of this story is…Sunscreen is NOT the only option.

HOW-TO USE SUNSCREEN PROPERLY

Proper application of a zinc oxide or titanium dioxide-based sunscreen when out during peak sun hours is key.

  • Apply a full ounce (about the size of a shot glass) to all exposed areas of the body thoroughly, for the average-sized adult.

  • Reapply at least every two hours when outdoors. Reapply more often if you’re sweating a lot, and right after you towel off after being in the water.

  • Make sure to read the instructions on the product to see WHEN to apply–some must be applied 20 minutes before sun exposure, while others provide instant coverage.

  • Shower off the sunscreen completely after you’re done with UV exposure for the day. Afterwards, apply facial and body skincare products that contain cooling and soothing ingredients such as Aloe Vera gel, witch hazel, green tea, or cucumber.

It’s extremely important to apply it correctly, and reapply it often, for sunscreen to be effective! There is no doubt that many of us stay in the sun too long. However, there are many other factors which contribute to damage, such as diet and pollution levels.


THE DARKSIDE OF SUNSCREEN

  • Sometimes it can feel sticky.

  • Sometimes it can look white or cakey.

  • Sometimes it may contribute to clogged pores and breakouts.

  • Most people don’t apply sunscreen properly or frequently enough for it to actually have any protective effects. Furthermore, most kids, or adults for that matter, are not a fan of re-applying and prefer not to be interrupted from playing. Therefore, ineffective.

  • A higher SPF does NOT provide better protection OR longer times of protection. An SPF of 45 is only 4.5% stronger than an SPF of 15, NOT 3x as much protection as you might expect. All it means… is more freakin’ chemicals, which can do more damage than good. Use an SPF of 15 - 30 and just be sure to reapply throughout the day, you will be fine. In fact, the FDA is considering banning SPFs over 50 because it's so misleading.

  • There is no such thing as sweat-proof or waterproof sunscreen. The FDA realized that and now requires a separate round of testing for any product claiming water or sweat resistance. These claims are now prohibited on sunscreen labels.

  • Many are HIGHLY TOXIC, not only to us, but the environment including the reefs when using the toxic ingredients in the ocean. And what’s most frustrating is that the FDA will not admit that chemical sunscreen ingredients are toxic or harmful in any way, though websites like the Campaign for Safe Cosmetics, Natural News, Made Safe, and the EWG claim seemingly endless citations stating otherwise.

  • Natural mineral sunscreen ingredients (formerly known as sunblock) such as titanium dioxide and zinc oxide have fewer toxicity links than chemical (absorbing) sunscreen ingredients like oxybenzone and octyl methoxycinnamate (OMC) and are just as effective. Sadly, the FDA says the word Sunblock can no longer be used for a natural mineral sunscreen. Which is a crock of sh** if you ask me.

  • Sunscreen sprays and powders have questionable safety, because of possible inhalation hazards and questionable efficacy since most of it ends up in the air.


So let’s talk about the TOXICITY!

I am so passionate about this one.  I have someone dear to me that is, well, almost see-through, crazy pale.  They do well to cover up and stay out of the sun, but almost too much in that they never get much benefit from the positive aspects of the sun, Vit D.  They also use crazy toxic sunscreen, because they burn so easily. So ______, my dear, please read this, and please read the Need to Knows of Enjoying the Sun Safely!!!

Many chemical sunscreens contain xenoestrogens and may have detrimental effects on the mood, the hormones, and the immune system.  🤔 Strange, isn’t it… the exact opposites of the positives from the sun and Vitamin D.


To Sunscreen or to Sunblock?

Sunblocks, (physical sunscreens), contain trace amounts of zinc or titanium dioxide.  These ingredients work by reflecting and scattering both the UVA and UVB rays and prevent them from entering the body. And as mentioned above, this word is no longer able to be used for natural mineral protection.

Sunscreens work by absorbing harmful UV rays and neutralizing them before they can damage the body. “Broad Spectrum Protection” will contain both absorbing and physical sunscreen ingredients.


HOW DO YOU CHOOSE?

With so many different sun protection products available, how do you know which ones to choose? Which is the most effective? Which is safest?

What is sad, is that all sunscreen ingredients can be toxic. Mineral-based sunblocks are considered safer, but unfortunately, there are new studies suggesting that titanium dioxide can be absorbed into the bloodstream and, over time, can cause damage.

According to Rachael Pontillo, “Many cosmetic manufacturers who use titanium dioxide are starting to either use lower concentrations (“nano” or “micro-sized” particles) of it or are switching to zinc oxide. Absorbing sunscreens contain chemical ingredients that are all potentially harmful and create free radicals. Of course, some are less harmful than others.”

Many sunscreen ingredients do more harm than good.

What’s scary is that, according to The Holistic Health Library, it now appears that many heavily used chemical sunscreens may actually increase cancers by virtue of their free radical generating properties. “Many commonly used sunscreen chemicals have strong estrogenic actions that may cause serious problems in sexual development and adult sexual function and may further increase cancer risks.”

Queensland now has more incidences of melanoma per capital than any other place on Earth. The rise of melanoma is evident in countries where chemical sunscreens have been heavily promoted. Researchers have found that people who live there are at a higher risk for skin cancer because they use chemical sunscreen more often than anywhere else.  

According to studies, the incidence of skin cancers has increased even as chemical sunscreens have become popular among fair-skinned people.

Some say that those who wear higher factor sunscreens may stay out in the sun longer, because they feel protected. But as some have pointed out, if chemical sunscreens were actually as protective as claimed, having longer sun exposure would be countered by the supposed protective actions.

These man-made chemicals, in my opinion, may cause serious health problems and increase your risk of disease.

According to Rachael Pontillo, “The main sunscreen ingredient used in chemical sunscreens to filter out ultraviolet B light is octyl methoxycinnamate; OMC for short. OMC has been found to kill mouse cells even at low doses. Plus, it was also shown to be particularly toxic when exposed to sunshine. And guess what? OMC is present in 90 percent of sunscreen brands! 

But that’s not the only reason to be weary of chemical sunscreen ingredients. A common ultraviolet A filter, butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, has also demonstrated toxic properties. The sunscreen ingredients present in chemical sunscreens have also been shown to produce estrogen. Several studies show that the chemicals commonly used in sunscreens are absorbed through the skin and end up circulating in your blood stream.”

😬 YIKES!!!

 
 

Here is a list of fu** NO ingredients to stay away from. 

They are dangerous and potentially life threatening. If any of your sunscreens or moisturizers contain any of the following chemicals, please toss them in the garbage!

Be weary of the multi-taskers too, like a daily SPF with tint moisturizers + antioxidants.  It sounds amazing, but many of them include a slew of unwanted ingredients and polymers and silicones.  Check those ingredients!

These are chemical sunscreen "active ingredients." Sometimes brands mix them with zinc oxide and slap "natural!" or "mineral!" on their bottle. Stay away! For more information on the Anatomy of an Ingredient Label click here. 

  • Oxybenzone (the worst of the chemical sunscreen active ingredients)

  • Avobenzone (also stains clothing)

  • Dioxybenzone

  • Sulisobenzone

  • Para amino benzoic acid (PABA)

  • Padimate O

  • Octyl salicyclate

  • Octisalate

  • Cinoxate

  • Phenylbenzimidazole

  • Homosalate

  • Menthyl anthranilate

  • Trolamine salicyclate

  • Octocrylene

  • Octinoxate (banned in Hawaii along with Oxybenzone)

  • butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane

  • octyl methoxycinnamate (OMC)

  • Methoxycinnamate

Other ingredients to watch out for: like "inactive ingredients" that you want as clean as possible. I personally wouldn’t use anything containing:

  • Any form of Vitamin A, like retinyl palmitate, will increase photo-sensitivity. (These may be used apart from being in the sun.)

  • Anything ending in “paraben"

  • Triethanolamine (TEA)

  • "Fragrance" - if they won't tell you what it is, don't give them your money

  • And more!

A note about “reef-safe”.

Katie Kimball of Kitchen Stewardship says, “Reef-safe” used to be a great way to find safe sunscreen, but too many brands have taken out only the ingredients banned in Hawaii. They carry a reef-friendly label even though they're not reef-friendly screens.”

So beware of greenwashing: many brands have options, some with chemicals, some with minerals, and sometimes with both. Sometimes they even label them "reef-friendly" when all they did was remove 2 ingredients, but they're still neither reef or human friendly.

Look at ALL the ingredients and be sure to check out the inactive ingredients too!

What SHOULD my sunscreen contain?

  • Look for both UVA and UVB protection, SPF 15-30 - (Non-nano titanium dioxide and zinc oxide are two active ingredients that are natural minerals that come from clay and beach sand deposits.)

  • Look for zinc oxide as the only active ingredient - reef safe and human safe! SAFEST mineral "physical barrier" sunscreen. Period. Look for non-nano particles >100nm.

  • Titanium Dioxide = Still fairly safe. Should only be WITH zinc oxide though, not by itself (it's not broad spectrum).


ANTIOXIDANTS

Look for one that also contains antioxidants. Many higher quality product lines are now adding antioxidants into their sunscreen formulations to neutralize the free radicals caused by the sun protection ingredients before they can cause any damage to your body.

Your sunscreen should contain antioxidants, both to keep the oils from going rancid and to provide additional protection for your skin against the cancer-causing rays of the sun. Some examples: olive, sunflower or jojoba oil, avocado oil, sea buckthorn oil, carrot seed oil, red raspberry seed oil, cranberry seed oil, grapeseed extract, green tea, bleak tea, wild pansy, hibiscus , green coffee, Vitamin E (one acceptable form of Vitamin E is "Tocopheryl acetate").

I always recommend doing your own research, because… that’s how we learn, right?  You can check out The Environmental Working Group and search for the best sunscreen for you and your family. They have a very comprehensive sunscreen guide.  Check out any of the other above-mentioned sites.  And, my friend and one of my speakers from the Reset the Clock on Aging Online Series (still available, by the way😉), Katie Kimball, did extensive research for her and her family. You can check out her sunscreen frugal and reef-safe ratings here. 


Now let’s talk about the effect sunscreen may have on the skin.

Breakouts and congestion.

  • If you are someone who is prone to flare-ups or breakouts, be sure to look for sunscreens made with lighter, less occlusive emollients that are intended for use on the face – even if the area you are prone to breakouts is the chest or back. These are are less likely to suffocate the skin or clog pores.

  • Avoid sunscreens that contain cocoa butter or coconut oil.

  • Use ONLY “fragrance-free” sunscreens, as synthetic fragrances cause irritation and possible allergic reactions.

 
 

HERE ARE SOME GOOD SUNSCREEN OPTIONS

According to Katie Kimball:

BEST REEF-SAFE MINERAL SUNSCREEN

  • Kokua Suncare - tons of antioxidants and goes on great.

  • Raw Elements - super clean, tinted is awesome for faces.

  • Maelove - goes on perfectly clear – I call it the best transition sunscreen to move away from chemical sunscreens.

BEST FOR BABIES

Kabana

BEST FOR SPORTS

Raw Elements

Badger Sport

BEST FOR LADIES’ FACES

Kabana Tinted

Raw Elements Tinted


To be frank, I have not vetted the above sunscreens. And things do change. so please be sure to look at the ingredients.


A FEW I’D LIKE TO ADD

AKT  Elemental Sun Balm (a little bit of natural tint).

Siam Botanicals Bio Guard Mineral Sun Protection

Blissoma Light Shifting Solution

Butterbean’s Sunscreen - Great Overall, multiple products. High quality, and sustainable products that have been naturally sourced - healthy for both people and the planet. Unrefined, certified organic, and fair trade oils impart antioxidant-rich protection to the skin. Pure vitamin E from sunflowers nourish the skin with non-GMO and gluten-free goodness and use food-grade organic coconut oil for added health and moisturizing benefits. Use code ANGIE657 for 15% off any order.


NOT A SUNSCREEN

Want some color without being in the sun? 

Try this natural self-tanner by Suntegrity.

Sunscreen alone will not protect us completely from sun damage. For sunscreen to be effective, it’s important to apply it correctly, and reapply it often AND use it together with shade, clothing, hats and sunglasses.


The body’s resistance to the sun’s damage can be strengthened with a healthy diet, proper skincare regimen, and certain supplements.

With these practices, you can enjoy the sun safely 🖤

XOXO,

Angie

 

 

For more information, please check out the Melanoma Research Foundation’s sun safety tips on their website, and the FDA?s sunscreen info on their website. You can also go to The Environmental Working Group and search for the best sunscreen for you and your family. They have an excellent sunscreen guide.

As always, you can check out the following sites for ingredients and toxicity levels and ingredient safety.

Made Safe

Safe Cosmetics

The Holistic Health Library

REFRENCES

  1. Anatomy of a Sunscreen, Mar 1st, 2016, Farah Ahmed and Curtis Cole, Ph.D., https://www.skininc.com/science/ingredients/article/21881608/anatomy-of-a-sunscreen

  2. The Benefits of Green Tea for Breakouts and Blemishes, Rachael Pontillo, Jan 8, 2022, https://createyourskincare.com/the-benefits-of-green-tea-for-breakouts/

  3. 22 Undisputed Sun Safety Facts, Rachael Pontillo, June 17, 2015, https://createyourskincare.com/22-undisputed-sun-safety-facts/

  4. New FDA Sunscreen Guidelines: What You Need to Know

  5. Rachael Pontillo, Mar 23, 2012, https://createyourskincare.com/new-fda-sunscreen-guidelines-what-you-need-to-know/

  6. Foods That Fight Sun Damage, Sally Wadyka, April 08, 2018, https://www.consumerreports.org/sun-protection/foods-that-fight-sun-damage/

  7. How to Protect Your Skin from Chlorine and The Sun (Besides Sunscreen), Rachael Pontillo, July 11, 2020, https://createyourskincare.com/protect-your-skin-from-chlorine-and-the-sun-besides-sunscreen/

  8. Sun Protective clothing, https://www.skincancer.org/skin-cancer-prevention/sun-protection/sun-protective-clothing/

  9. Photosensitizing Essential Oils, https://www.skincancer.org/risk-factors/photosensitivity/

  10. Fighting Off Free Radicals: Protect Yourself from the Sun, Rachael Pontillo, January 25, 2011, https://createyourskincare.com/fighting-off-free-radicals-protect-yourself-from-the-sun/

  11. The Hidden Dangers of Chemical Sunscreen Ingredients, Rachael Pontillo, Mar 22, 2011, https://createyourskincare.com/the-hidden-dangers-of-chemical-sunscreen-ingredients/

  12. Queensland still the skin cancer capital of the world, April 1, 2016 in General Media Release, https://cancerqld.org.au/news/queensland-still-the-skin-cancer-capital-of-the-world/

  13. Derms Weigh In, STAFF AUTHOR, NOV 28, 2021, https://www.byrdie.com/is-chemical-sunscreen-bad-5192567

  14. Maximize Your Summer Fun Without the Health Risks From Untested Chemicals, https://products.mercolamarket.com/summer-essentials/

  15. The Sun IS Your Sunscreen, https://alsearsmd.com/2011/03/the-sun-is-your-sunscreen/